Category Archives: travel

How to Rent an Apartment or House in Europe (with Kids!)

The first time we took our kids abroad, they ranged in age from 4 – 8 and we stayed here in this lovely home in the Cotswolds region of England (think rolling hills and lots of sheep.  It was the perfect place for our family of 5.  From our little home in the Cotswolds, we saw Gloucester, Bourton on Water, Bath, and several castles in Wales. We also took the train into London for a couple of days, and to Edinburgh, Scotland for a few more days, to enjoy the sights and sounds of those very different cities.

For our next adventure, we braved Rome (hotel), Florence (hotel), and then rented this villa in Tuscany for our final week.

Complete with its own olive grove and a pool for summer guests, it was pure heaven.  From our home base, we were able to visit Assisi, Cortona, Castigione del Lago, Orbetello, Cascate del Gorello and Siena.  Needless to say, we didn’t want to return to our real home.

Our latest excursion took us to Spain, where again we split time between a hotel (in Marbella) and an apartment in Madrid.

beautiful pool at our hotel in Marbella
view from our Madrid apt.


Marbella is in the south of Spain,
and we used the hotel as a base to visit the picturesque town of Ronda, Puerto Banus, the Alhambra in Grenada, Sevilla, the Rock of Gibraltor, and the beautiful Mesquita in Cordoba.

After all that sightseeing, we were ready to relax and enjoy the sights and sounds in the city of Madrid, including our all-time favorites, the mercado de san miguel, and Retiro Park, which we visited every day for a little R&R.

So how did we find these places?  How did we decide where to stay?

It takes a lot of research (time), a little luck, and a leap of faith.  But in our experience, it’s completely worth a bit of extra work to fully immerse your family in another culture.

  1. First, decide what kind of vacation you’re looking for:  Do you want to sit by a pool every day for a week or do you prefer to sit by the pool for an hour, then kayak through the mangroves, body surf in the waves, and visit the local tiki hut?  Do you want to see one city, and see it all, or use your ‘home’ as a base and sightsee like crazy?  A bit of both?
  2. Explore the area online and in guidebooks.  When we first considered Spain, it was hard to choose where to go.   In addition to seeing the south and Madrid, I’d love to explore the western and Basque regions, and to return to Barcelona which I loved visiting years ago.  However, it’s a big country, we had two weeks, and we’re travelling with three kids.  
  3. Narrow your choices.  Given our parameters, I decided that Barcelona would be better with older kids or as a couple and that we’d be able to see an awful lot of cool historic sights, as well as natural beauty, if we stayed in the south for our first week.   We decided to stay at a resort, rather than a regular hotel or B&B, because hotels in Europe are smaller than in America and we have 5 people.  Getting a 3BR, 4 bath hotel “room” was a no-brainer since we were staying for a week.
  4. Do your research.  The second week, we wanted the more authentic experience of living in the city of Madrid.  To get it, we decided to rent an apartment.  That one little decision cost me hours in research time.  What do you want to know when you’re looking for a place to rent? Before you even Google Madrid Rental Apartment, you want to consider the where–what part of the city do you want to live in?  Prices will be all over the board but it won’t mean anything unless you know whether you’re in the seedy or swanky district, close to the metro, or in a neighborhood far, far away.  Do you want a yard?  When we rented homes in England and Tuscany, we decided ‘yes.’  But for Madrid, we wanted to be in the heart of things, so we were willing to forgo a yard in favor of being close to the metro (which we hardly used).  When we made that decision, though, we also made another:  we wanted to be within walking distance of Retiro Park (think Central Park in NY) so the kids could get out and run a little each day.
  5. Choose your sights.  Beyond understanding the general layout of the city or town you’ll be visiting, you want to think about which sights you want to see.  Very often, museums are closed certain days of the week–you’ll want to know what’s open and when before you leave, so you can plan accordingly.  We looked at the places we definitely wanted to see in Madrid and chose an apartment as close to those sights as possible, in the neighborhood we had decided upon.  Your plan doesn’t have to be in ink, but it’s a good idea to pencil in when you plan to see what–including which days you’re just going to chill at the park.
  6. Consider your budget.  Oh, I know, this one isn’t any fun at all.  But if you aim too low, you’ll end up in a skeevy place with bad mattresses and who knows what else.  If you aim too high, you risk ruining the joy of your trip with unnecessary worries about money.  Know your price range, and be willing to go to the high end of it to get the right place.  Your home away from home and your airfare are your biggest expenses.  Choose wisely!
  7. Hit the web.  There are a bazillion websites from which you can rent homes and apartments in Europe.  I suggest looking through a few guidebooks, as well, to see if they have any suggestions. Websites vary by country–I always look at vrbo.com and Trip Advisor, but I also Google around to see if there are agencies that deal specifically with the region we’re visiting.  When we went to Italy, for example, we booked through Villa & Charme (www.villa-charme.com), where you can rent everything from a wine country villa with cooking staff and maid service, to a simple, beautiful, countryside villa with a pool.
  8. A word to the wise:  If your style is to pack as much in as possible, make your list then revisit #3.  Narrow your choices!  Traveling abroad with kids is a fantastically wonderful experience, but you’d be crazy not to build in a little down time.  On big trips like these, we plan a day “off” every few days to just wander olive groves, skip rocks at the beach, and enjoy long, leisurely meals.  Trust me, if you’re traveling with your kids, you’ll need it! 


My Kind of World History: La Mesquita, Cordoba

I wasn’t a fan of World History in high school.  It bored me out of my mind, in fact.  I memorized the dates and got the heck out of there as fast as I could.

It’s a bit ironic, then, that I find real-life history so fascinating.  On our recent trip to Spain, visiting the Mezquita in Cordoba was one of my favorite tourist stops.  Here are the cliff notes:

Once upon a time, there was a Roman pagan temple which was torn down and replaced by a Visogothic Christian church (St. Vincent).  

People worship there for a time until the Moors conquered the town and subsequently tore down the church and over the next two centuries built a beautiful mosque in its place.  

Years later, the Christians came back through and were once again top dog in Cordoba.  The mosque was so beautiful, though, that instead of tearing it down, they simply constructed a Cathedral right in the middle of it! Today, it’s still a Cathedral and we were there on a day when a worship service was about to commence.  Very cool.

Who doesn’t like history like that?

Here are the beautiful arches in the mosque:

Can you see that intricate inlay on the ceiling?  Here’s a closer look:
Yes that’s on the ceiling!
Here are the signatures of all of the stone masons that worked on the mosque:
And here’s the Cathedral, erected right in the center of the mosque.  Can you imagine the great conversations about faith, war, and history we had with our kids after this visit?  No disrespect to my high school, but this is my kind of world history.

Wanderlust

The Colosseum, Rome

Was it nature or nuture?  Did I arrive here on earth, a little bundle of joy, destined to crave travel?  Did I show up predisposed to want to find my way around big cities, become part of small towns, and explore vast wildernesses ?

Or did I simply grow into my desire, fueled by years of moving from military base to military base, noticing along the way the subtle and not-so-subtle shifts that exists among people?  Did my mother’s insistence on driving the back road–instead of the highway–pique my interest in discovering other cultures, other paths?
Was it nature or was it nuture?  Maybe a little of both?
While I don’t know the answer, I do know this:  If it’s out there, I want to see it. 
Seville Cathedral

Having kids added all kinds of new wrinkles to travel, which in the far-flung past existed solely for my pleasure at my whim.  Kids don’t really see the fun in soaking in the sun by the pool for hours or going for a massage before dinner.  Darn them.

But we have three, so rather than pouting and sticking close to home, we’ve learned to switch things up a bit and take them along.  Where have they been?   They’ve visited to the Mecca of Mickey Mouse, of course, and eaten breakfast in front of the Trevi Fountain.  We’ve hiked them through Yellowstone and let them run off steam around the Plaza Mayor.  But will they inherit this love? Nature or nuture?  Whose to say?
Yellowstone

For now, though, they’ll be coming along.  If you like to pack up your brood, too, here are 8 tips for traveling with kids (kids who’ve made it past the diaper phase, that is.  Click here for tips on car travel with little kids—some of which transfer to air travel, as well.)

  1. Get your passports now.  If you plan on leaving the country, or even possibly leaving the country, don’t get into a bind because you, or your kids don’t have this all-important document.  Make copies before you go and take one along; don’t keep it with your passport. 
  2. Do your homework.  There’s nothing worse than spending hard-earned cash to show up in a new place and have no idea where to go.  Use the Internet, sure, but be careful not to get sucked into the vortex of random travel information.  Books are still worth perusing for tips on where to go and what to see.  Try Rick Steves, the Lonely Planet, Frommers and Fodors, for starters.  Find a guide that resonates with how you like to travel, and comb it for insight.
  3. Plan your adventures.  Once you know which sites you’d like to see, get the real-life info you need to make it happen.  This is a bigger deal in a foreign country, obviously.  Before we took the boys to Spain, for example, I Google mapped how to get from Marbella to Grenada, Toledo and Cordoba.  I also reserved tickets for the Alhambra (because I read that it sells out frequently) and knew the admission prices of the other sites we’d be visiting (see # 8).
  4. Timing matters.  If you’ll be leaving the time  zone you live in, try to keep the kids up late or get them up early for at least a few days before you leave.  Moving their internal time clocks even just a little can help you all start things out more smoothly on the other end.
  5. Don’t expect them to read People magazine on the plane!  Pack their backpack with some books, games, pencils and paper, and plenty of tic tacs and gum.  If they have an iPod, this is a great time to let them download a new movie to bring along.
  6. Pack light.  You’ve heard it before, but it’s worth repeating.  Get a place with a washing machine, find a laundromat, send it out, or wash it in the tub, but for goodness sakes your kids do not need 15 shirts each.  Put them back.
  7. Plan your downtime.  If you’re off for a week of frolicking, make sure you reserve a day or two for the kids to chill out. And you.  You’ll need to chill out, too.
  8. Budget.  Okay, this should have been first!  In order to have spousal harmony, a critical component of a successful vacation, it’s wise to agree ahead of time on how much you’re willing to shell out for trinkets on your trip.